Delamination vs warping
Warping peels corners off the bed; delamination splits finished layers apart, usually mid-print, and the part snaps cleanly along a layer line. If corners lift, work the warping guide instead — the fixes below are for bonds between layers, not bed adhesion.
Print hotter, within range
- PLA/PLA+: 200–230°C per the TerraEco label — the top half of the range bonds better
- PETG: 230–250°C (start at 240°C) — cool PETG layers barely fuse
- ABS/ASA: 240–260°C (start at 250°C) with a 90–110°C bed
- Hotter plastic flows into the layer below instead of sitting on it
Keep the heat in
Each new layer must land on plastic that is still warm. Drafts and aircon blasts freeze the surface before the next pass: enclose ABS/ASA (40–50°C chamber is the target), and for PLA and PETG at least close the room and keep fans and vents off the printer. Tall thin parts cool fastest and split first — slow them down.
Cooling fan discipline
- PLA: 100% fan after the first layers — it needs the freeze for overhangs
- PETG: 40–60% — full blast weakens bonds for little quality gain
- ABS/ASA: fan off, or up to 20% only on tiny features and bridges
- Too much fan is the most common cause of strong-looking PETG that snaps by hand
Dry filament bonds better
Steam micro-bubbles in wet filament leave voids along every layer line, so a damp roll delaminates even at perfect temperatures. PETG, TPU and ABS all absorb moisture fast — if a roll has been open for weeks, dry it before chasing slicer settings.
Slow down and go thinner
Thinner layers and slower speeds both buy bonding time: drop to 0.16–0.2mm layers and cut outer-wall speed by a third on parts that must take load. Strength prints are slow prints — save the fast profiles for display pieces.