Why PETG fights back
PETG's strength comes from layer bonds that refuse to let go — which is exactly why it strings between parts, welds itself to bare build plates, and punishes wet filament more than PLA ever does. Respect those three traits and PETG prints beautifully.
Settings that work
- Nozzle: 230–250°C (start at 240°C)
- Bed: 70–85°C
- Cooling fan: 40–60% — full fan weakens layer bonds
- Speed: 40–60 mm/s, first layer 20–30 mm/s
- Retraction: 4–6mm at 40 mm/s (Bowden) or 1–2mm (direct drive)
- First layer: slightly higher Z-offset than PLA, slow and watched
Bed adhesion without damage
Put a thin glue-stick layer on smooth PEI — not for stick, but as a release agent. PETG bonds to bare glass and bare PEI so aggressively it can chip the surface when you pry the part off. Textured PEI is more forgiving. Avoid printing PETG directly on bare glass bed.
Stringing: dry first, tune second
In most cases, PETG stringing is moisture, not settings. Dry the spool at 60°C for 6–8 hours before touching retraction. Still stringing? Drop the nozzle 5°C at a time and raise travel speed. The full checklist lives in stringing and oozing fixes.
Dry storage keeps every roll printable — reseal the spool the same day you open it.
PETG absorbs moisture fast in Philippine humidity. Reseal the spool the same day you open it — sealed box, desiccant, hygrometer under 30%. See drying and storage.